Period Floor Tile Information

This page contains information on the production, supply, preparation, laying and maintenance of a period Victorian or Edwardian floor.

Colour and Texture Variation

Period floor tiles are classed as dry-pressed (dust-pressed) porcelain stoneware, they are made of blends of clays and different minerals pressed into a mold under high pressure then the tiles are dried and fired in a kiln at a very high temperature. As these tiles are unglazed, what you are looking at is the raw clay and with that in mind you will see shade variation, slight texture variation and flecks in the tiles. The Bright / Dover White can have tiny flecks of Grey in the surface but the overall appearance is an off White colour.

Most colours appear uniform but some show some variation in shade from tile to tile and more pronounced between different shapes of the same colour. Red and Green, for example, can vary in shade quite a lot. Depending on the clay used, some whites can have a slight sandy texture too. With that in mind, it is important to work cleanly when laying these tiles.

  • All of these tiles should be sealed before and after grouting in any case.
  • We do not recommend dark coloured grouts for these tiles as they can be very difficult to clean off when the tiler has finished grouting.
  • As the clay has not been glazed, nor do the tiles have a "cushioned edge", it is normal for some sharp points (this affects triangles in particular) to have tiny chips and sometimes the corners are not absolutely sharp but once laid and grouted these are not apparent under normal circumstances.
  • If, when checking the order or during installation you find tiles that are particularly badly chipped, we are more than happy to exchange them for you - obviously nothing can be done once they have been laid.

Size variation

The tiles can vary in size slightly, with these tiles you are inherently tiling different batches of tiles - the factory cannot make Black triangles on the same production line / day as White ones for example. Variation in size can be most noticeable when laying chequerboard patterns. With this in mind, the way to deal with this is to first loose-lay some tiles to decide on the best grout joint width to use and then while fixing be prepared to slightly open and close the joints as you go along. Although on a micro level, the joints are going to vary in widths, when standing looking at the floor they will look fine, this careful joint manipulation will ensure all the lines are lined up and the tiles look neat and tidy. This is the reason we do not recommend that the tiles are supplied to you meshed or sheeted as not only are they are usually badly aligned but you remove the opportunity to adjust the joint widths as just explained.

When laying patterns with a border, it is often necessary to either slightly open or slightly close the grout joints between the components so that when tiled along a long length of the room, the border can go around the pattern and meet up correctly. When laying these tiles, it is best to aim for an average grout joint width of 2mm.

These tiles are extremely hard wearing and can be used inside or outside on floors, pathways, porches and steps, as well as for domestic properties we supply shop floors, historic buildings and churches. Provided they are laid correctly they will last lifetimes with little signs of wear.

Laying on Solid Ground

These tiles should be laid on a solid bed of either concrete or overlaid with cement fibre boards if over a timber floor. Usually the floor would be covered in a thin layer of self levelling compound to make sure the floor is completely smooth and flat before laying. When we provide written quotes we always include several PDF information sheets which explain in greater detail about the tiles and how they should be laid.

Aftercare

Once the floor is completed we recommend vacuuming up the bits and then mopping the floor with a well wrung mop with just plain hot water (no detergents). Using detergents can gradually remove the sealer the tiler would have applied and will then make cleaning more difficult. If you get stubborn marks on the floor then a dab of the sealer on a cloth will remove most if not all. If the floor gets to the stage where it is looking grubby and in need of a thorough clean it is very straightforward to use a chemical to clean the floor and remove the sealer then after allowing to dry you can quite quickly reseal the floor ready for many more years of enjoyment.

Samples

We are happy to post out samples of the tiles for confirming colours when you are at the stage of wanting to order and feel free to ask as many questions as you wish before making your purchase. For more detailed information ask for our data sheets or if you request a quote from us you will receive them automatically.

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